I absolutely love the Big Easy. It is without question one of my favorite American cities. I can't say enough about the energetic and amazing spirit, atmosphere, and vibrancy that the city resonates from every corner. I also couldn't get enough of the music, the food, and most importantly the vivacious and friendly locals.
This trip was actually the third time that I'd been to New Orleans. However, the first time I was there was for a work conference, and the second time was to embark/disembark on a cruise ship. This third visit was the first time that I feel like I really got to experience what New Orleans has to offer.
I barely even scratched the surface while I was there, of course. New Orleans certainly can't be fully experienced in just one weekend. It definitely requires repeat visits!
|The symbolic Fleur de Lis|
With that, here is a summary of the weekend's sights/sounds/eats:
SIGHTS AND EXPERIENCES
Free Tours by Foot - This company offers guided walking tours where you determine how much to pay at the end based on how much you enjoyed the tour. Adam and I had a very nice French Quarter walking tour with a guide named Kathy Harrell. She was extremely knowledgeable and clearly enjoyed showing us around.
The company offers a good variety of tours to pick from. If time had permitted, I would have also liked to take their tour of the Garden District and Lafayette Cemetary. Next time!
The French Quarter definitely needs no introduction. Instead of the famed Bourbon Street, I want to mention nearby Royal Street, which is loaded with cute shops, galleries, and restaurants. It also has some absolutely fantastic street performers. Many of the jazz artists are street performers by day, and music club performers by night. (I've got more to share about the street performers in my "Sounds" section below!)
New Orleans School of Cooking - One of my very favorite things to do while traveling to famed culinary destinations is to take a local cooking class. Adam and I learned how to make gumbo, jambalaya, and pralines. Then we stuffed ourselves with the finished products. (Time for me to loosen my belt a notch or two...)
Our instructor was as local to New Orleans as could be. This enhanced the experience even more! She took great pride in sharing with us the correct Southern pronunciations of the words 'praline' [prah-lean] and 'pecan' [puh-con]. =)
|Chocolate "prah-leans" = yummy, yummy in any American accent!|
French Market - Enormous open-air flea market with lots of local vendors selling anything from touristy souvenirs to hand-made jewelry, arts and crafts, and clothing. There are some great food stands to pick from, too. I love local markets like these. I bought a bunch of fun take-me-homes, including loads of gumbo mix!
Streetcars - Adam and I had some time to kill before dinner one night, and we were tired from walking around all day. Therefore, we decided to hop onto one of the streetcars just for the experience. We ended up riding the Canal Streetcar all the way to the Greenwood Cemetery, which was the end of the line.
In general, I think one of the best ways to experience a city's dynamics is to ride the public transportation - especially outside of the tourist areas. Indeed, this did not disappoint! It was also cool to see one of the famed above-ground cemeteries (built as such because New Orleans is below sea-level).
Historic New Orleans Collection Museum - Admittedly, Adam and I happened to walk by when it was raining, and ended up going in because they have free admission. It is a quaint restored house where you can learn about the history of New Orleans and Louisiana.
Mississippi Riverfront - Another sight that needs no further introduction!
|The Natchez Riverboat cruising down the Mississippi|
Frenchman Street - Home to an amazing array of music venues. The night that Adam and I spent exploring Frenchman Street was my favorite experience from our entire visit. I always want to go where the locals go - and I've heard it said that Frenchman Street is "local" New Orleans (whereas Bourbon Street is "tourist" New Orleans).
We spent most of our Frenchman Street time hanging out at two venues - Maison and The Spotted Cat.
We saw a variety of bands of which I can't remember the names. However, I do remember one jazz singer that we saw at Maison named Sasha Masakowski. She is very, very talented.
In terms of other music venues, Adam and I also heard a lot about Preservation Hall, Fritzel's, and Irvin Mayfield's Jazz Playhouse, but did not get a chance to check any of those out. Next time.
Looks pretty unassuming from the outside, eh?
Speaking of local performers, New Orleans has by far the most amazing selection and quality of street performers that I've ever seen. Anytime I heard the strain of jazz notes or the sound of a gathered crowd, it was always completely worth the effort to find the source.
I saw one performer on Royal Street who really stood out to me. Her name is Doreen Ketchens and her clarinet-playing skills completely blew me away. Check out this video of her from YouTube:
So much good food, so many good restaurants! New Orleans is definitely not a place to visit if you're trying to diet. =D
Court of Two Sisters - Historic restaurant with a gorgeous French courtyard. We had the Jazz Brunch, which was phenomenal. As the name implies, there were local live jazz performers and an unending array of local Creole cuisine. (This was another instance during which I had to loosen my belt a couple of notches afterwards. ;-) )
|The courtyard at the Court of Two Sisters|
Johnny's Po Boys - The oldest family-owned po-boy joint in New Orleans. It's packed with locals, and the line goes all the way out the door and down the street. It's a cash-only, no-frills place with really good food. In short, this is exactly the type of place I love to seek out while traveling.
Cafe du Monde - Famous beignet and coffee shop. Apparently there is some debate amongst the locals regarding what place has the best beignets in New Orleans, with Cafe Beignet winning a lot of votes! But, I humbly consider Cafe du Monde to be the classic haunt.
|At the Cafe du Monde Riverwalk location.|
There was enough powdered sugar in the bag to kill three people.
Emeril's - Who could pass up the opportunity to go to Emeril's hometown restaurant? We went there for Adam's official birthday dinner and it was fantastic. Great service, great food, great atmosphere. To this day, I still dream of their banana cream pie...
Tomas Bistro - We were lucky enough to find this place on Groupon. You would never guess when you step inside that this place is a converted former factory! It's a very warm, cozy ambience, and the service and food were both terrific.
Cochon Butcher - This place drew rave reviews for their muffaletta, which was reputed to be the best in New Orleans. I am not a muffaletta aficionado by any stretch of the imagination, but indeed, their muffaletta was mouthwateringly delicious. I will also paraphrase a review I saw online about their peanut butter pie, which is that it is the best justification known to human kind for getting a gym membership.
Manning's - Classic man-cave-style sportsbar. For all you NFL fans, this is the namesake of Archie Manning (father of Peyton and Eli). Disclaimer: Adam and I stopped by to check it out, but did not actually dine there. We had full intentions of going there to watch a Steelers game. However, this place is popular, and on game day we didn't feel like staking out seats three hours in advance of kickoff.
|Stadium seating at Manning's for the diehards|
As much as we did see and experience in the Big Easy, there was so much that time did not permit.
In the future, I want to check out the Garden District, Mardi Gras World, Magazine Street, Audobon Park, and a voodoo tour, among dozens of other things. There are also countless other museums, restaurants, music clubs, etc. to explore. Someday I hope to experience Mardi Gras in the Big Easy, too.
I will be back, New Orleans.
Thank you so much for sharing about your trip in such detail! My close friend is getting married this year and wants to do her bachelorette in New Orleans, so of course I bookmarked this for future reference. I'm even more excited to visit now, especially because I've never been!ReplyDelete
Irina! That is awesome that your good friend is planning her bachelorette in New Orleans! It's the most amazing city and there are so many ways to paint the town red there. I am super excited for you to go visit - I think you are going to LOVE it. I can't wait to hear about your experience when you visit!!! That will make for an AWESOME edition of Frames From The Weekend. =)Delete
The Preservation Hall Jazz Band will actually be in Chicago (well, Skokie) next month! I got Robert tickets for Christmas. http://www.northshorecenter.org/ai1ec_event/preservation-hall-jazz-band/?instance_id=ReplyDelete
WOW!!! Thanks so much for sharing, that is AWESOME that they'll be touring locally! What an amazing Xmas present for Robert! I would love to go see them so I am going to see if Adam is up for it, too. How did you find out about this event!?!??Delete
I've been debating a visit to NOLA for a long time. It's on my bucket list, but may not happen for awhile given my current travel agenda.ReplyDelete
What did you think of the general environment there? I've read some things that hint at safety concerns and street scammers... but I would assume it's similar to Chicago (IE - use common sense in picking areas to walk through and if you engage with a street performer expect to pay them).
I remember you'd mentioning before that you wanted to visit NOLA! I hope that you are able to go check it out very soon. It is such an amazing city. I think you would LOVE the energy, culture, and food there. In the meantime - please share more about what's on your current travel agenda! Would love to hear further details.Delete
Funny you should ask about the safety in NOLA. I never felt unsafe. However, when we were there, there had actually been some recent incidents in the French Quarter, so the public was being warned to be vigilant. In short, YES - I think you just need to use common sense to not do things like wander into dark, empty streets while intoxicated, et al.
I figured as much! Some people just seem to think they're on vacation, so they can let caution fly to the wind.Delete
As to my travel plans ... I'll post more info in a couple of weeks!!
Can't wait to hear about your travel plans!!! Obviously please let me know earlier if any of them happen to include another visit to Chicago, too. =)Delete
I haven't been to NOLA since high school but I loved it and need to go back. Cafe du Monde gets my vote as does breakfast at Brennan's. Maybe RnRNOLA would be fun...ReplyDelete
Ah yes, I had heard about Brennan's too but did not get to check it out! Big yes on RnR NOLA, too. It's too bad that the race takes place so early in the year - it wasn't on my radar screen until it was too late to plan for it. But definitely sometime in the future!Delete
Speaking of RnR - I'm thinking more and more seriously about running RnR Vancouver. I know you were thinking about that one, too - so please keep me posted on your thoughts!
One of my old roommates is from New Orleans, and though I've never been, this all sounds quite familiar! She was very proud of her hometown and it certainly showed in her cooking. My sister currently lives in Jackson, MS, which isn't all that far from New Orleans, so I'm hoping that someday when I get my act together and go down to Mississippi to visit my sister, we'll be able to swing down to New Orleans as well. I really want to visit!ReplyDelete
So cool that you've got so many connections to the New Orleans/Jackson area! It seems like everyone I met down there was very proud of being Southern. They also took great pride in cooking with "real" ingredients, e.g. bacon fat, lard, butter, et al. ;-) I hope you do get a chance to go visit very soon! I think you would love the atmosphere and the energy. (On a side note - I'm on a mission to visit all 50 states, and I have never been to Mississippi! So I hope to go to Jackson or somewhere else in MS someday soon, too!)Delete
Sounds like a lot of fun!! The one time I was in New Orleans was when we were leaving for a cruise. We ended up getting down there 2 days earlier than expected since we rebooked our flights due to a huge snowstorm, but the 1 full day we had to explore was christmas day so nothing was open except the casino. We did take a special Christmas eve plantation tour but that was about it minus a tiny bit of exploring before we had to catch a plane on the way home. Would love to have more time to explore there.ReplyDelete
New Orleans is such a great destination for a cruise port, isn't it? How cool that you were taking a cruise right around the holidays! That is too bad that your one full day in NOLA was when everything was closed. However, New Orleans does do the holidays very well with all of their lighting and decorations - so hopefully you at least got to see some of that! A plantation tour sounds really cool - I need to add that to my list of to-dos, as well. So how about we add RnR NOLA to our list of future races to meet up at!?!?!?Delete
It was fun...definitely would've been nice to see more but oh well! RnR NOLA definitely does sound like a fun race and of course its always nice to get away during the winter :)Delete
Next time! Note to self for future race planning. =) Incidentally, I'd like to run Tinker Bell and Princess at some point, too, if you ever want to run those again as well!Delete
Love this recap! Rich is going to New Orleans next month for a Bachelor Party, but I've never been. It's on the short list!ReplyDelete
Thanks Katie! Wow, how cool that Rich is going to NOLA. If it was for anything but a bachelor party, I'd say you should absolutely tag along! I think you would absolutely LOVE New Orleans. The food, music, and atmosphere is unparalleled! I hope you get to visit very soon!Delete
I always visit cemeteries when I go to new cities. It's so weird, but so fun! The Key West one is similar to New Orleans, where the bodies are buried aboveground due to hurricanes.ReplyDelete
That's such a cool idea to visit cemeteries in different cities! I don't think it's weird at all! I had no idea that Key West had above-ground cemeteries (I think people are much more focused on the ocean =) ) but it makes perfect sense given the landscape!Delete
Cafe Du Monde is the best! I will be in NOLA in 2016 for the RnR Half Marathon. You should go with me. :-)ReplyDelete
Beignets... yum. I think I saw that you took advantage of an early-registration discount to sign up for RnR NOLA 2016, yes? Very cool! I'd have to REALLY plan ahead if I'm going to do that one as February is my busiest time in the office!!! TBD, TBD. =)Delete
Yes I did. Can't remember exactly how much I paid but it was a good deal.Delete
Any thought of doing any kind of RnR Tour Pass again in the future for you? Or are you done with the mass volume of RnR races?Delete
I'll do it if they add new cities to the list. Plus it will help me with my 50 states journey.Delete
Yeah, I hear you. I've got plenty of ideas for new destinations they could add to their list! =DDelete